Saturday, August 28, 2010

Tuk Tuk Express




We are currently sitting in Siem Reap, Cambodia, finally with a good internet connection and time to burn.  Last time I wrote we were a couple thousand km away from here and our journey up to here has been adventurous. Planes, buses, guns, ping pong, palaces and temples.
From Ko Phi Phi we went to Patong to do pretty much nothing.  We organized our moves, went out on the town one night and then flew to Bangkok.  Bangkok is another one of those anything goes kind of cities.  It is famous for some beautiful things, crazy things and some confusing things.  The main form of transportation is the Tuk Tuk which is a scooter with a carriage on the back.  Cheap and a great way to feel the breeze in your hair and take in the sites. The best food is out of stands on the street.  I think I had about 12 pad thai's in the time I was in Bangkok for $1 a shot.  As long as you see people eating at the stalls, you know you will have a 90% success rate of not sitting on the toilet all night.  My study is based on nothing and so far none of us have grown any extra limbs or been sick (knock on wood and all that jazz).

Our first day in Bangkok was going to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew Temple.  Unbelievable is probably the best word to describe the architecture and the amount of gems dressing the buildings.  One of our travel policies is when a tour guide is offered it is always worth the money.  We got a guide with an awkward accent and very interesting character.  The best way to describe him is he would make an amazing evil madman character for a James Bond film.  He showed us the ins and outs of the temple and palace that a person without a guide would just walk by. Plus a guide takes group pictures for you.

We got back to our hotel, Rumbutti Guest house next to Khaosan Road, and went out for some street food and prepped for the evening ahead.  Bangkok is known for some strange shows.  We made our way on Tuk Tuk to the Pat Pong district where some scandalous stuff goes on.  Our first stop was to watch dirty men (some clean looking but dirty inside) pick a numbered woman off the stage to accompany them for the evening.  The show is just a stage and these women come out in bikini and stand there blowing kisses at the drunk business men.  Now the best part, and the catch, is that every ten minutes or so the women on the stage get down and work the crowd and then a new group comes out.  The new group keeps the crowd going and the men drool after them just the same BUT the catch is they are MEN.  Sex-changed and you wouldn't even know it.  These dudes go the whole way reshaping their body by doing the basic boobs, nose, etc, but even go as far as shaving down their adams apple and adding ass implants.  It is very confusing and to the guys who don't know the difference, they take these lady boys home for the evening and all we can do is sit and laugh.  In this place, I jumped into the washroom expecting to see a girl peeing in the john but luckily it was just me and the towel guy.  I did my thing and go to wash my hands and this guy comes up behind me and cracks my back and neck, hands me a towel and sets me on my way.  Best washroom service I have ever had.

Our next adventure was down the street.  People try to sell you a ping pong show.  We have heard about this and have had enough beer to prep for it.  We found a group of tourists come out of one and we were informed that this one was ok.  We walk and are handed a drink menu and a show menu.  Naked girls on stage standing around not doing much until we order our beers. Then a horn blows but none of the girls had a horn in their mouth.  Don't think too hard and it gets better/stranger/grosser depending on your taste.  Have you ever seen a magician pull 10 meters of string from their sleeve, well this was more interesting to say the least.  It must have been one of those fine ladies' birthdays cause they brought out a cake and she blew out the candles.  Another girl shot darts at balloons with great accuracy from about five meters away.  A few more things happened with household items and fruits but I think the point has been made.  We made our way out and taxied back to our hotel area for a night cap and in bed by four or five in the AM.  The next day was a slow one of shopping, Pad Thai, movies and not much else.

The next day was 'fly day' to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.  There was an option to bus but after experiencing border crossings before and reading about it a little we decided to fly.  This falls into another one of our travel policies - even if it's cheaper, it's not always better.  We weighed all of our options and spending $60 to fly versus up to a 12hr bus ride, getting ripped off, wasting time, hating life and possibly spending the same amount of money due to officials ripping us mad, it was a clear decision to fly.

First impressions of Cambodia are that the people are very nice, the busiest city is Phnom Penh (the capital) and for some reason there are a lot of Lexus's and nice cars.  We made our way to Smile Lakeside Guest House and really broke the bank.  Laura and I spent 4$ a night.  Very friendly people and they provided a bed to sleep on.  Being by the lake and all the heavy rain, the ground floor eventually flooded but luckily we were on the second floor.  That evening I learned a second way to have your heart broken.  We went to a children's dance performance which ended up being at an orphanage that no longer did performances because of a lack of tourism. That night, however, they put on a private 20 minute show for the three of us which melted our hearts.   These kids were amazing and did a great job.  With my heart broken we made donations and they were so thankful because I think we gave them a couples weeks worth of food etc.

The next day was a sad day of Cambodian history.  We went to S-21 torture building/prison and then the Killing Fields.  Very heavy and sad.  One of those things that blows your minds because you can't believe there are people in this world that can do things like that.  To cheer up the mood we finished the day off at a military gun range where I shot off an AK-47.  I wanted to shoot a grenade launcher but you have to go out of the city for that.

From there we went to a town called Kratie in Northern Cambodia.  It was a five hour bus ride where at our first stop Kristen ate the head and legs of a tarantula and I stuck with a can of coke.  Kratie is a little off the beaten path, as we were a sight for the locals just as much as we were there to see them and the fresh water dolphins.  We spent a day biking through villages up to an area of the Mekong river where these freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins live (an endangered species). You pay about $7 and a boat takes you out to see them.  They do not do too much but they are rare and interesting. We made our way back to Balcony Guest House and organized our bus to Siem Riep.  For our 11 hour bus ride to Siem Reap we bought a local dish, called Krolan, which is a specialty made in a town. It's sticky coconut rice with peanuts in a bamboo stick, usually consisting of three sticks that resemble an accordion.

Bus ride was uneventful except for the delicious rice.  We arrived in Siem Reap where we Tuk Tuked to our MotherHome Guesthouse.  MotherHome is one of the nicest hotels I have ever been in and it's only 25$ a night for the three of us.  The service is out of this world.  We show up to bowing, smiling faces and fresh, minty, chilled towels to freshen up, complementary fruit juice and they really voiced that they wanted to make sure our stay was the best.  That evening we went to a buffet and traditional dance called Apsara like the ones the kids did for us.  We got back early for our sunrise at Angkor Wat.

We woke up 4:30 AM to get to Angkor Wat to see the sunrise and so did a couple hundred people.  It was unbelievable.  We spent the day with our guide and Tuk Tuk seeing the temples.  The history and details were fantastic and the pictures speak for themselves.  We saw the sunrise at Angkor Wat then saved going inside for last.  We spent eight hours looking around other amazing spots and finished inside Angkor Wat where we were wished good luck by a Buddhist Priest and given a red rope bracelet.

Today we are walking around town and taking an overnight bus to Sihanoukville which is 'the' Cambodian beach town.





Kratie Bike Ride




Angkor Wat and Other Temples



















Saturday, August 14, 2010

Blondes have more fun



It's been a while and quite a bit has changed.  I left Lembongan to change scenery and there was no ATM on the island.  I also judo chopped my board and kneed it, so it was in need of repairs.  I made my way back to Kuta. Kuta is where I spent the rest of my days doing trips from there to the Bukit peninsula to surf.  I scored Balangan at 6 to 10 foot which was epic.  Huge, fast left that was heavy and long.  I surfed there a couple of times then to changgu a crowded beach break.  I ventured around on the scooter a couple hours to see the sites and then I packed my bags, sold my boards and made my way to Thailand.  I got the waves I needed and decided to surprise Laura a few days early.

Knock Knock! Who's there? Me.  I met up with the girls on the Phuket peninsula nice and early to their surprise and have barged in on their sister time.  We spent a day together in Kata, Phuket which is nothing special, except for the hot water and A/C.  Spent the day doing nothing then wine and dinner on the beach.  The next day was off to Ko Phi Phi.



Two hour packed ferry with people hurling everywhere as it was choppy and we finally made it to our place Viking Resort.  Beautiful island, with clear waters, white sand and huge rock formations.  It is next to the island where they filmed The Beach for all you die hard Leo fans.  It has been three days now here and it has been fun.  We did a hike (10 min) to a view point of the island and today did a boat ride to snorkel and see "The Beach". Snorkeling was fun and Maya beach where they filmed the movie would be nice and picturesque but has become over run with tourists, boats and there is an admission fee.  We decided against docking and being on the same sand as him to avoid paying the 8$.  Later we same up to another entrance and saw it for free.  Other than that is has been catching up and soaking in the sun.  No complaints!

We are in the process of creating or next stage of the trip.

VIDEOS
Balangan
Underwater Phi Phi
The Beach





Laura and Kristen's Journey



Where to start, where to start…?! It’s been a busy last week. Well, I guess I’ll start off by giving a brief lesson on scooter safety while traveling abroad. #1) It’s probably best to have some prior riding experience before embarking on a day-long adventure through a fairly secluded national park. #2) Make sure you wear a helmet and it should fit. #3) Bring medical supplies (ie: band aids, gauze, alcohol swabs, etc) if planning on being far from help. #4) Be able to laugh when you should maybe be crying! So, wondering what happened? It was more or less a case of a first timer on a scooter who had no fear, or better put, no ‘idea’ of what she was doing when flying down a winding, gravel road. When Kristen yelled out to me “someone fell”, our hearts dropped. We saw one scooter in the middle of the road and the other in the ditch. Braking quickly I ended up cutting my toe but that was nothing compared to the others. The one girl was covered in blood. She had scrapes everywhere and THANK GOD she was wearing a helmet because that was dented from the impact. She was conscious, with no broken bones – it was a miracle! Her friend also ended up falling when he turned to look back but thankfully he wasn’t nearly as busted as her. We had a count of about 3 Band-Aids which could cover one part of her hand. We were out by about 30+ Band Aids! Being in the middle of nowhere we made due with the little supplies we had and, with pretty much no other choice, we had to scooter back slowly to the Chiang Mai hospital. She ended up getting cleaned up, prescribed about 5 different drugs and lived to tell the tale.

In hopes of counteracting the copious Pad Thai and beer, we’ve been keeping super active. A few yoga sessions and swimming laps were done and one evening we decided to enroll in an authentic Thai boxing course at Lanna Muay Thai Boxing Camp. Holy shit. It was probably one of the toughest training sessions we’ve done in our lives. It only started off with a 5km jog up a hill in 30+ degree heat, followed by them ‘wanting’ us to skip for 15 minutes. Yeah, that lasted about 4 minutes and then we got our hands wrapped up for our brief lesson in punching, kneeing and kicking. About half an hour later, we’re in the ring attempting to kick ass. We learned that boxing is very hard work, if you want to get fit fast than that is your solution and the pain from the training will hang around for at least 3-4 days after. Was it worth it? Completely!

Chiang Mai is lovely but we wanted to get into the mountains and see the city from a different angle. We came across a mountain bike adventure company called Crank with a day-long downhill bike tour. Sold. Well, I was. Kristen was a bit hesitant but I told her it’d be fine. We started the day by heading up to the top of one of the highest hills, about 1,900 meters above the city. We stopped to see the most famous temple in Chiang Mai called Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, where Kristen and I were blessed by a monk. Very interesting and the temple was gorgeous. Once we got to the top we made our way down, stopping at a coffee plantation, small villages and farms. As we made our decent the trails got more and more difficult, mostly because of rain damage. A girl flew over her handlebars twice. Most of the trails were covered with red, extremely slippery, clay. The roots, rocks, rivers and moss also didn’t help and I forgot to mention that the last hour or so it downpoured. There was a few moments were I potentially thought I lost a sister. It wasn’t tears of joy down her face, that’s for sure. Somehow we managed to get down scotch free (minus Kristen popping her shoulder in and out) but I think I can even safely say that was the most technical downhill I had ever done. It was awesome!! To end the day we had lunch on a floating bamboo raft. The menu was completely in Thai so our guide picked out his favourites. They were delish! Kristen also tried dried maggots. Now that’s gross!


Our last excursion before leaving for Phuket we decided to join full day tour that encompassed a bit of everything. We started off at a subpar butterfly and orchid garden. It was pretty dull and uninteresting after seeing the one in Niagara on the Lake. After that we went to visit a Karen Hill Tribe. The Karen, or the “long neck tribe” are the largest hill-tribe group in Thailand and are known for the many brass rings that the women wear around their neck. Although we wanted to visit some remote hill-tribes during our trek, I don’t think we anticipated how touristy and staged the visits would be. The Karen village was just off the roadside and was more like a little shopping strip than an actual village. We walked in and along a small dirt road were little bamboo stalls with Karen women sitting in front, making scarves and trying to sell you the same items we saw at every street vendor throughout Thailand. It felt more like we were at a zoo and observing these women in a fake community. It was a little unsettling.


The next journey was a walk through a deserted rice patty field to an elephant farm. This was definitely a highlight of the full-day trek. It felt like we were off the beaten track and away from the main tourist area.  We slowly made our way through the extreme mud, being careful not to slip and grab onto the barbed wire fence, and climbed onto some very large elephants for a slow ride through a rocky river. It was a miracle we didn’t slide off the rickety seat while the elephant was maneuvering some steep and muddy hills while the rain poured down. Let’s just say it was slightly terrifying.

We drove to a new location after lunch and took a quick hike into the forest to find a gorgeous waterfall hidden behind a small village. We then headed on towards the river, where we found out (surprise!) that we were going to be going white-water and bamboo rafting. This was not on our list of activities for the day but, what the hell, we were going to do it! It was awesome. Our guide loved to shout “get down!” like Arnold Schwarzenegger as we hit big drops and we just hoped that the dark brown water wasn’t going to give us pink-eye. After the adrenaline rush of the white-water, the bamboo raft was a quick, relaxing ride to the drop-off point. We don’t know if it can really be considered a raft, though, if you’re sitting a foot into the water as it’s going down the river… It was a great end to the day.

All in all, Chiang Mai was a fantastic place to visit and settle in for a good few days. No shortage of things to do and a great place for the adventurous. We’ll definitely be back!

Few extra points:
-          The Thai massage at Fah Lanna was incredible – well worth it!
-          Stay at Banilah – the three Thai ladies who run this amazing boutique hostel/homestay felt like family…so helpful
-          Explore the Saturday Night Market – amazing little vendors with everything you can imagine and more. The prices are also super cheap if you bargain
-          Best yoga studio – The Yoga Studio – Chiang Mai
-          If you want to order food to your room use - http://www.mealsonwheels4u.com/restaurant_show.php



Laura and Kristen's Travels













Phi Phi Isand