Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Has it been that long



We have past six months of travel now and it finally hit me that I've changed because the customs agent in Vietnam did not believe I was the same person as on the passport.  I had to sign a piece of paper and another officer looked at my passport but was eventually allowed through.  You hear stories of people growing beards etc and are denied but I didn't think it would happen to me.

It's been about two weeks since Hoi An and a lot and a little has happened.  From Hoi An we made our way by bus to Hue which is about half way up Vietnam.  We spent the first afternoon on bicycles touring around the city.  The next day was spent on scooters taking in some sites.  We went to the Citadel which was unimpressive but worth the trip to see the 72" Samsung flat screen that gave us a history of the palace.  From there we went to Tu Duc, one of the many tombs.  Hue is one of those cities that can be skipped if you are short on time.


From there we went on a 9 hour train ride to Hanoi.  Back to hectic city life.  We killed 6 days there doing nothing because Laura got sick and actually had to use the emergency antibiotics.  There was also the Mid-Autumn  festival going on and the streets were jam packed. One night we went out to have some cheese, bread and wine by the lake. Along the way a group of women had staked out Kristen and Laura who attempted to rob them (came real close), I saw three people get hit by motorcycles and the amount of people leaning on their horns made the whole process exhausting.


With Laura feeling better we organized our trip to Halong Bay with a tour group.  Very impressive and picturesque place.  The only annoying thing was the people on boat trip.  We arrived at our junk boat and from that moment on people bitched and complained about how they were not getting what was in the pictures or promised.  It can really spoil the mood but we kept to ourselves and managed to have a good time.  We spent one night on the boat and then did a trip onto Cat Ba where we biked around and then went to a private beach on Monkey Island where we spent the night.   Halong Bay is one of those places you have to see but has become extremely touristy, so much so that there's a floating ATM in one of the floating villages.


From Halong Bay we got back to Hanoi and that night went on an overnight train to Sapa in the north of Vietnam.  We organized a two night, three day hike into the mountains to see the villages.  Our guide was one of the local girls who took us on day long hikes through the mountains which was not easy but very rewarding.  It was amazing to see how these people live and farm in the mountains and we really enjoyed ourselves. Both nights we stayed in a local family's home who would cook us meals and provide open dorms (meaning the floor) for us to sleep. The meals were a bit authentic but still catered towards the Westerners pallet. However, day two we got to try water buffalo which was delicious. The rice we ate was also from fields probably 100 meters away which was fluffy and flavourful. The first night we were with a group of 6 people who were tons of fun. On the second night it was just Laura, Kristen, the guide and myself.  That night it rained so hard that in the morning we were informed that our plans had changed because the road was washed out. We had to hike back up the mountain which tested all of us. The guide had never even attempted it.  There were no smiles at the top, lots of sweat but we made it.

Muddy, sore and tired we showered back in Sapa and changed our clothes for the first time in three days. You can imagine the smell. Then we made our way on an overnight train back to Hanoi.  We arrived in the pissing rain and paid a fortune for a hotel room but kept our sanity as we had to refuel before getting ready for our flight to Laos where we are now.

Hue


Halong Bay






Appropriate caving attire?


Sapa













     When kings starts getting creative

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Fraction of the price doesn't mean you have to buy it all




We arrived in Hoi An five days ago and since then have amassed a wardrobe that includes 2 three pieced suits, 7 shirts, 4 jackets, 4 dresses, 3 pairs of boots, 2 shorts... all custom fitted or 'couture' as I just learned.  It has been a lot of fun and the girls have been to more fittings than a bride. 



Hoi An itself is probably the nicest, most picturesque city we have been to in Asia.  There are too many tailors and shoe shops than you can swing a stick at but other than that it is nice cafes, restaurants and pleasant people.  From the first hour here we were in a tailor shop Kimmy's with Laura and Kristen going full on shopping.  I held off until the next day to pick out my suit as it was shopping overload just watching them.  We were recommended a food stall that was cheap, dirty and delicious.  Can't remember the name but it was on Phau Chu St. close to Hai Ba Thrung. Best noodle soup in the town.

The next day was spent picking out my suit and then we rented bicycles and cruised around the  town and to the beach.  There is not too much to do in Hoi An other than relax, eat and shop.  We found some really amazing places to eat in (namely Vi Cafe and Cafe 43) and every once and a while one of the girls would come up with a new must have/necessity in terms of tailored clothes.  Maslow would be turning in his grave but it is all custom made and reasonably priced.  It is not cheap but if you pick the right tailor you can get a great feeling outfit with great service. 





One of the attractions in the area other than tailors is Marble Mountain. Here it's obvious that they do a  lot marble statues but you can also hike up the mountain and explore tons of hidden temples and caves.  Very cool stuff and looked like it could have been in an Indiana Jones movie.  We scootered there and back and then took off to a fitting before our cooking class at Citronella.  It was just Laura and I in the class and it was a great experience.  We made shrimp pancakes with rice paper, a traditional special soup, watercress salad with pork and shrimp and ended with a five spice banana leaf squid all while enjoying a bottle of wine. After Laura went off to one more fitting before meeting up to go out for a nice dinner. We met at Casa Verde by the  river where we broke the bank Vietnam style but had the chef come out and recommend things to us.  It was a very romantic setting and their beef pasta was delicious.





Yesterday was fitting-a-thon day.  Laura and I finished our suits and they came out great. Laura and Kristen then had to go off and try on boots and dresses all over town. Warning: if you want take advantages of the tailors in Hoi An you must be prepared to stay a while and attend lots of fittings.  



Today turned out to be "Today was a good day" kind of days.  Great breakfast (Vi's Cafe), long bike to the beach and bike down the coast, great lunch, lounge around while the ladies do their last fittings and then walk by Kimmy's on our way to dinner and the owners invite us out to dinner.  Simple day leads us to a locals meal.  We ate stuff you wouldn't even know existed in Vietnam kind of meal all accompanied by the lovely owners of Kimmey's.  A thank you goes out to them for everything they have done (hospitality and clothes). 

Quick Note: if you eat at Cafe 43 you must try:
 - their pancakes (not the desert kind)
 - White Rose
 - Beef Pho 
 - chicken with chili and lemon grass
 - AND their stuffed squid - amazing!
 (lastly, the fresh beer for 0.25 cents is delicious. you can't go wrong unless you drink too many. buyer beware)