Over the last 6 days it's been surfing Playa Madera which consists of a pretty heavy beach break. I have had some great rides and some not so much. Beach breaks are not the greatest but I have gotten myself into the barrel and caught some big waves. I have also not caught some big waves which has led to interesting situations. For example my first day out, the beach was maxing out in size and the waves were closing out a lot. I made it out back and on my second wave I was flying down the face to a pending doom and had to make my exit. So I jumped off and tried to break through the wave, which failed miserable. Instead I was tossed with the curl and held under but in the process I felt something other than water. Something human like. When I surfaced there was a not so happy surfer between me and my board. Nobody was hurt, apologies made and back out the line up. He turned out to be kind of a jerk about it but he was in my way anyways. Other than that incident the surf has been epic.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Nica Nights
Over the last 6 days it's been surfing Playa Madera which consists of a pretty heavy beach break. I have had some great rides and some not so much. Beach breaks are not the greatest but I have gotten myself into the barrel and caught some big waves. I have also not caught some big waves which has led to interesting situations. For example my first day out, the beach was maxing out in size and the waves were closing out a lot. I made it out back and on my second wave I was flying down the face to a pending doom and had to make my exit. So I jumped off and tried to break through the wave, which failed miserable. Instead I was tossed with the curl and held under but in the process I felt something other than water. Something human like. When I surfaced there was a not so happy surfer between me and my board. Nobody was hurt, apologies made and back out the line up. He turned out to be kind of a jerk about it but he was in my way anyways. Other than that incident the surf has been epic.
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