Wednesday, May 12, 2010
St.Didacus
Being snaked, cock blocked, dropped-in on is an art form. Some people posses this talent and their sole purpose in surfing is to do this repeatedly. They do not know they are chosen to be that person but it is some force of nature that makes them do this. Being dropped-in on is when someone catches the wave in front of you when you clearly have it. Being nearest to the peak of the wave gives you right of wave. It`s surfers etiquette. I bring this up out of frustration because the owner of the place we are staying at snaked me. If he did it too many times, I would ask for a refund and leave his place but it happened just once. I told him he can take it off my tab after he apologized.
So we are at the eco lodge called Los Cardones. It is a very eco friendly place. So much so, that we have outhouses fully equipped with insect eating geckos , no electricity and a #*!T load of mosquitoes. Our malaria pills are getting their usage. On the bright side the food is great, people are super nice and the waves.... The waves are hand carved by Poseidon himself. There is an all time beach break with perfect A frames and then a left hand point break that was cover shot in `Surfer` magazine. It is on San Diego point. Some call it hemorrhoids which is very unclassy. I prefer to call it San Diego or I have renamed it Didacus. San Diego is St.Didacus. I will spread the name and see if it catches.
We are here until the 22nd of May. Swell arrives tomorrow and back to the point to pig-dog some heavy barrels. Hopefully critical drops are made and critical shots are taken.
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